Top Cabinet Installation – Extending your kitchen cabinet to the ceiling isn’t that difficult! How to fill this empty space and pull out the previous cabinet. This is a great way to freshen up the main cabinets in your kitchen or laundry room.

Tall cabinets add a stylish look, and with this tutorial you can add them for very little money! You can add doors for extra storage space or leave them open like I did to display jewelry.

Top Cabinet Installation

This project was a big step in my Reno kitchen – thank goodness it went very quickly and was easy to build!

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When we select cabinets in the manufacturing process, we choose shorter versions, not taller ones. I knew the top shelf would be too high and I didn’t want to spend more money. 🙂

We added crown molding and I think it would make a big difference if the base cabinets were built.

Here you can see where I placed the crown to place the cabinets on top of the fridge – it’s still on the left side:

I would do this project even with tall cabinets. I love the look of built homes, and building them to the ceiling seems more traditional to me.

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I didn’t use any fancy tools to build these boxes. They are very simple – I don’t even use the pocket station. We won’t see the sides of the boxes, and they are mostly decorative, so it’s not necessary.

If you can see the sides of something (and don’t want to add trim), I recommend using a Kreg Jig.

But to build these “upper cabinets” (as well as the box I built to extend the kitchen island) I only used plywood boards and screws:

This is my favorite corded drill – I love it for larger projects that require more power and will last longer than my cordless drill will allow.

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I didn’t even use glue (I learned I might need to make adjustments later). Those who build cabinets for a living are probably disgusting. 🙂 But these don’t touch them at all and the boxes are solid!

My point is that you don’t need a lot of tools or a workshop (the kitchen is fine) to do things like this.

The most difficult part of any project like this is sizing the boards to make the boxes. I spend most of my time perfecting this.

I stood there with a tape measure and a notebook, took pictures of what I wanted to do, and ended up getting most of them done by the time I got to the final game. This is how I arrange it all in my head.

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I had all the pieces cut at the hardware store – this time I didn’t cut them all at once because I checked the size along the way.

I took one box at a time and placed them on top of my existing cabinets to make sure I had the right size and height:

I built the boxes separately, but you could build one large box with a piece of wood separating each section. I knew I wanted to mimic the look of the small cabinets opposite them, so I wanted the sides to be thick.

Your cabinets are designed to support a certain amount of weight, so don’t worry about it. Be sure to attach them to the walls behind you (and to yourself) – this will take most of the weight off.

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It doesn’t go all the way back, but I want it to go back enough so I can include it in the next one.

It is also screwed to a stud on the right wall and to the cabinet that houses the refrigerator below:

I’m already in love!! My husband and son are laughing at me at this point, nodding and saying yes, it looks great.

There is about two feet of space above the cabinets, and I made them 16 inches tall. I’m putting a lintel on top and I want to leave enough space for this element and decorative trim.

How To Install Wall Cabinets

I didn’t want the cabinets to be too tall – I thought they would look small since our old cabinets were standard size.

Then I have to prepare for the headline. I screwed pieces of wood into the rafters in the ceiling to attach the lintel to the top.

I don’t have a good photo of it, but in this photo you can see part of it sticking out behind the headline on the right:

As you can see, once I attached it to the ceiling, I was able to attach the lintel to it and in front of the cabinets. For this part I used a 1×10 piece of wood.

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It’s a decorative headboard, but also the beginning of an innovative frame that I moved between each new cabinet.

Plus, I didn’t remove the crowns from the room to hang them – I know I can handle the new elements and save a lot of time.

Then came the revisions – this is my favorite part because everything starts to come together! I added some 1×2 cutouts to the bottom of the boxes:

This size will depend on how small your cabinets are – try to accommodate the space between each cabinet.

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I made a thick lintel because I had crown and trim I wanted to continue around the top of the cabinets. This takes up five inches from the ceiling to the bottom.

I will also add lighting inside the cabinets and it will work behind the lintel. This gives me plenty of room to add this and hide it.

I’m working on a deadline here – I’m a total hacker. I have weeks to do it, but when I have to, I work better.

The counting is coming up this week and I want to do everything I can.

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Here you can see that we need to move the light we missed by a few inches – it’s right where the corona passes.

It’s hard to see anything there, but if you look closely you can see how I put a little molding on top that surrounds the rest of our living room. This is an easy way to make your crown look extra chunky.

You asked a few questions about the cabinet on the left – I don’t intend to move it because the way of opening the door would be inconvenient.

This is what it looks like with the crown (which I helped with, I’m still not very good at cutting):

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I used some leftover wood from the fridge freezer, which helps a lot with spending money. I ended up spending maybe another $100, which included the discount.

You can also do this project if you have overlays over your cabinets – just remove them first.

If you have less space than us, you can add a heading and remove the whole thing. With the amount of space we have, this would be too big a headline.

Have you tried this activity at home? I know many of you are thinking about this! We finished installing one of the cabinets on the floor, which rises about 1/2 inch at the back. Here are our tips to keep everything safe.

Diy Kitchen Cabinets {made From Only Plywood!}

Chicago kitchen floors are generally flat, but the backs of the cabinets rise about 1/2 inch. Normally this wouldn’t be too noticeable, but packing kitchen equipment is a unique challenge. As you can see in the photo above, we chose traditional eye frames with an integrated nose pad for some of the cabinets. Because the front of a traditional cabinet must be flush with the floor, we cannot use traditional front lighting methods. (If we do this, any shims will be visible under the decorative kick!) Instead, we made the decision to cut out the back of each cabinet to make it easier to assemble the front. Are you confused? Here’s how we can get around this problem.

This is not an option, the only logical solution is to remove the device from the back. This allows the back of the cabinet to move

And maintaining the correct vertical and horizontal position. We measure 1/2 inch from the back of the cabinet and then sew the tape, which is flexible, to fit the front frame of the cabinet at a right angle. Then, using our favorite circular saw with an ultra-thin 60-tooth blade, we remove excess material from the sides of the cabinets. This allowed for a study

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